In an itty bitty spot on Agricola Street—nestled beneath the wings of Mother's Pizza, with just a handful of seats to spare—Ami Goto is just about ready to debut her newest venture. The chef and the former owner of Dharma Sushi will open Kitsune Food Co. (5710 Young Street, the side entrance at Mother's) a take-out lunch spot and evening snack bar, next Wednesday, August 4, serving a menu to match the space.
"It's definitely inspired by the izakaya pop ups. I just really wanted to focus," says Goto of the concept that drew inspiration from her years of working at Dharma, her series of special Full Moon meals at Mother's Pizza and a recent trip she and her partner (Eric MacIntyre, who's also her Kitsune co-owner) took to Japan. "We’re so into small, tiny spots with small, tiny menus. I just wanted to make every simple, homemade and handmade."
The tight menu will feature dishes like sushi, karaage crispy chicken, Japanese curry, gyoza, miso and seaweed salad, but will change frequently. Lunch will deliver grab-and-go options for hungry folks on the go, while the evening offerings will be more shareable snack style, paired with beer and sake selections.
"I love working in restaurants, but most times I can't see the whole thing," says Goto of the appeal of opening a small, intimate space. "This time it’s just me and my partner in the beginning. I like to know 120 percent of whats going on. I love to have the moment— it's almost like a meditation—doing what you really love."