- Lenny Mullins
Bonilla is the head chef at The Exchange on Hollis, a new-this-summer restaurant serving up international cuisine, and he knows his stuff. He’s completed four diplomas, worked all over North America, written a culinary blog and published a contemporary Mexican cuisine cookbook, Five Courses. Originally from Mexico, Bonilla first came to Nova Scotia on a student visa and studied architectural drafting at NSCC. He wanted to learn how to better design kitchens before stepping into the next stage of his career.
Bonilla realized his passion for cooking decades ago when he was a teenager. His first introduction to the biz was working at a fast food restaurant in Mexico City where his interest in the industry was sparked. In his final year of high school, Bonilla’s family moved to Detroit and he enrolled in his school’s home economics program. It took three weeks in that class for him to decide his career path, and he hasn’t looked back since.
“It is a different world, a really exciting world. And that’s kind of what pushed me into it,” he says.“The ambience inside the kitchen. After that, I didn’t drop it.”
In May, at the same time that Bonilla and his family were granted their permanent residency in Canada, the opportunity at The Exchange arose. “If I were to write my book, it would be called Chance,” he says, laughing.
“It was incredible timing, you know some things are just meant to be I guess.”
Walk into The Exchange any time of day and you’ll see how big its operation is. At
The menu is also extensive. It’s the work of Bonilla and the restaurant’s general manager Andrew Flynn with a few dishes borrowed from its sister restaurant— St. John’s Fish Exchange—in Newfoundland.
The culinary concept is “international food that revolves around the north Atlantic
Bonilla thinks he’s come to Halifax, and the bustle of The Exchange, at the right time.
“I think it’s an up-and-coming city culinary-wise,” he says. Originally, his plan was to eventually head to Toronto but now that Bonilla has worn his apron here, he doesn’t see himself leaving anytime soon.
“The way that Halifax is growing culinary-wise, you want to be part of it.”